For Spring Summer 2012 the mainline collection has a minimal and classic aesthetic, drawing inspiration from traditional workwear but reinterpreted to create modern, elegant shapes.
The palette is inspired by a singular colour; navy blue. Tones from midnight blue to Yves Klein blue are seen throughout the collection, punctuated only by brief shades of terracotta, coral, light grey marl and flat slate grey. Prints are bright, bold and graphic, providing a sharp punctuation of colour to the dominant navy blue palette.
The silhouette is sharp; workwear inspired box shaped jackets with neat shoulders are seen alongside short, slim workers’ smocks with extreme drop shoulders. Trouser shapes are simple; a singular pleat is completed with a tapered leg. Soft luxurious fabrics encourage layering in the collection; a simple elegant blazer is covered with a long reversible overcoat or a trench.
Details and benchmarks of traditional workwear have been reinterpreted. Fabrics have been remade in luxurious yarns, creating a breathable and durable fabric, but with a soft handle and drape.
The traditional interior detailing of work jackets has been brought to the exterior, mixing laser guided stitching with hand finishing to create a lightweight construction. Collars are either removed or stitched down and, when combined with large patch pockets, create a distinctly utilitarian sensibility to the collection.
This summer, spirits are high and heady with a relaxed, carefree collection that embraces Paul Smith’s modern, masculine aesthetic for women.
Light-as-a-feather fabrics in deconstructed shapes are soft and airy giving layered pieces a cool simplicity.
Mannish, tailored pieces in smooth fabrics are sleek and fitted; an off-white double breasted suit is elegant and sophisticated worn open at the neck.
Silk handkerchief checks are flattering in oversize proportions; shirts are tucked into slim trousers or drawstring pants worn low on the waist.
Laced-trimmed georgette dresses add a touch of femininity, casually wrapping around the waist to create a sensual silhouette.
Pretty, soft-washed powder tones of blush, lavender and mauve sit next to a more masculine range of chambray blues and steely greys whilst vibrant shots of bright buttercup, jade and bordeaux bring optimistic block colour highlights to the palette. Hazy florals add depth, their petals inked with dark, velvety tones.
For more information please contact Abigail Talbot at the Paul Smith press office on 0207 257 6673 or email@example.com
First Published in Men's Passion issue #35 November 2011