The palette is crisp with four colour groups dominating the collection for a clean feel; navy, black, grey marl and an injection of brights seen most clearly in shirting and outerwear. Cloth choice is clean with these solid dark plains, boosted my chintz wool with a shiny lustre for a glam/punk feel.
Two key looks in tailoring come through in the collection for summer; the slim silhouette and classic silhouette - both have small shoulders and are shorter in length than previous seasons. Jackets are straighter and more masculine, moving away from slim waists.
The slim silhouette takes its inspiration from early David Bowie and Nick Cave with a ‘mod meets punk’ look. A reworked mod suit in traditional mohair tonic with shiny chintz finish features tiny collar and lapel, worn with neat trousers. Shirts worn underneath have small, stiff curved edge collars dressed with ultra skinny ties and accessorised with solid silver safety pins and paper clips, woven leather pixies boots complete the look.
The classic silhouette is inspired by the traditional ‘Mayfair’ look, a classic gentleman look with wide lapels with low buttons on the jacket. It is updated for a modern look with shorter lengths in classic open weave navy blazer qualities and luxurious grey marl flannel. Shirts are neat with cut away collars in an assortment of British Bengal stripes. Trousers are low rise, relaxed fit with a slim leg, worn with classic English slip-ons.
The general feel of the collection is relaxed, low and open. Pleats add fluidity, gracing shirting and casual tailoring pieces , for example nostalgic printed hawaiian shirts feature pleats and are worn open over string vests for a relaxed look. Jerseys are long and drape with low neck lines in ultrafine grey marl jersey or shiny grey silk jerseys. Knitwear adds a touch of Bowie punk and glam with lots of silver lame mixed with bright mercerised colours and loose punk jumpers in open fishnet stitch.
Punctuations of colour are also seen in the large selection of outerwear which in introduced for Summer. Outerwear pieces mix luxury with practicality, for example classic trenches and modern, ultra long Macs come in brightly coloured waterproof silks, alongside digitally printed cagoules and ponchos inspired by simple 1970’s sportswear. All pieces add to the simple, relaxed look of the collection this season.
