In a world where ‘digital’ is the new buzzword, mechanical watches that boast intricate complications are undoubtedly what make watch connoisseurs tick. Complications are an integral part of the world’s most ultra-luxe watches, and it is generally those housing complications that make it onto collectors’ wish lists more so than timepieces displaying just hours and minutes.
Complications are the most difficult to design, create, assemble, and repair, and therefore carry the jaw-dropping price-tags they are known for.
Some of the world’s most complicated watches will be displayed in Dubai during the upcoming Salon des Grandes Complications, which is taking place at DIFC from 7-10 November. The annual exhibition has become the go-to destination for serious watch enthusiasts in the region, and this year’s third annual event will showcase the creations of numerous world-famous brands – and the show-stopping complications crafted by them.
Here, we take a sneak-peak at three of the most complicated watches that will be displayed at the Salon:
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
Just limited to 100 watches, this is perhaps the most iconic chronographs produced by A. Lange & Söhne and definitely is one of the most desired.
The black solid-silver dial contrasts beautifully against the 41.5 mm platinum case as well as the hands and hour markers in rhodiumed gold.
Developing the 729-part caliber L952.2 movement, the finissage and assembly of this masterpiece is no easy task, with the entire process challenging the expertise of watch manufacturing. Only the most talented watchmakers can overcome the numerous obstacles encountered in creating flawless interaction of the individual modules.
The path to success requires extensive experience, dexterity, concentration and patience. Thus, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is yet another manifestation of A. Lange & Söhne’s determination to never stand still and to test the limits of mechanical horology.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 Automatic Carbon Skeleton
Though the execution of the movement is a key element to the Excalibur Skeleton’s design, its carbon composite case is impossible not to admire. Originally available in DLC titanium and pink gold, the use of carbon as a case material here works out well.
The movement design is far too asymmetrical for any structured carbon to really make sense. Each of its 167 components are hand-finished on all sides, as no part of the movement is hidden from its observer.
Each movement, just the movement and not the complete watch itself, requires a total of 530 hours of manufacturing to complete.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time
Tagged as ‘an ideal travel companion’ by this famous watchmaker, this particular piece has the world at your wrist. The watch has a center that features a ‘Lambert’ projection map depicting the continents (enhanced by a sunburst satin-brushed finish) and the oceans (in a velvet finish), along with a translucent lacquered disc bearing the city names.
A third sapphire disc is laid over the map that provides day/night indications by means of subtly graded smoky tints, synchronized with the 24-hour disc. Finally, a translucent lacquered velvet-finished outer ring serves to indicate the hours and minutes.
The case of the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time is 43.5 mm in diameter by 12.6 mm thick. It is water resistant is to 150 meters, and even features a soft-iron anti-magnetic ring.
Caliber 2460WT is self-winding, and the rotor is made of 22k rose gold. In its entirety, this beautiful piece is made in-house by Vacheron Constantin. The 36.6 caliber offers 40-hours of power reserve, beating at 4 Hz, with 255 components.
The whole watch, inside and out, is just beautifully finished, and is Geneva hallmark certified.